In a world where gender norms continue to be challenged and dismantled, fashion designer Ludovic de Saint Sernin and the model Teddy Quinlivan discuss what the future holds for these normative codes within the fashion world.
The people of the world have often considered clothes to show gender identity; however, increasingly, what consumers want and the modern age more and more demands is clothes and attire that are free of gender stereotypes.
Although the unisex apparel market continues to take market share, that doesn’t mean it’s all-encompassing. New products that advertise as “genderless” and “gender-neutral” are dominating the market, particularly with more tremendous success than others.
From androgynous influence on the runway to the mass market stores showcasing “borrowed from the boys” clothes for women, the blurring of lines between genders has been prevalent in fashion for a long time. However, fashion designers and industry experts are breaking the rules in dismantling the traditional distinctions between menswear and womenswear.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin and his namesake label have been adrift associated with the idea of returning sex appeal and non-gendered sensuality back into the fashion world. In a period in which gender fluidity is still too fully integrated into the world of fashion and famous society, de Saint Sernin, who was in conversation with the model and Fairchild Media’s Diversity Forum and has been regarded as a pioneer in a gender positive movement, particularly among that of the LGBTQ community.
“For me, this was all about living my truest self. I then discovered a market that needed to be recognized. I wanted to develop an identity that people who will wear it wouldn’t have to pick from the traditional choices,” de Saint Sernin declared. “And the impact in the industry has been the most amazing feeling because I am not alone, there is a whole world of people who want to open their hearts and be part of this community.”
The connection between sexuality and fashion is complex because, for decades, cultural norms determined how the two worlds are connected. This doesn’t only apply to what is visible. However, it’s the combination of clothes and emotional expression.
“Fashion has always been a barometer of where mainstream culture is at — what we find to be aspirational, cool, and authentic at the moment,” Quinlivan stated. “Sexuality is a major factor in the fashion industry, as has gender diversity as an aspect of sexuality have been presented by our industries, not because I think that the world is prepared for it. The reason I believe we’re witnessing this major shift and push is that, in terms of culture, we’re getting to a point where society is willing to accept the new changes mean and the way we present ourselves. And this is being demonstrated through fashion, as fashion is the lens through which we perceive the world.”
De Saint Sernin, who has recently appeared in his fashion show, and embraced the idea that you can “be your own muse” in a fashion sense never seen before, has recently released an extremely sensual advertisement that, despite not showing any clothing from his spring 2024 line, has generated massive buzz. It shows the naked body of the young Spanish model and rising star on the runway Fernando Lindez, lensed by photographer Willy Vanderperre, his sixth campaign for the LDSS brand.
“The images we created throughout [the last] five years was so overwhelming to see the reaction because it was so new and it was showing a new side of queerness, gayness, and sex in a fashion that didn’t exist before only because it wasn’t visible before,” de Saint Sernin stated. “The method I see the fashion industry and gayness, sex, queerness was not depicted prior to that. I used the sources I gathered as a gay person who was discovering what it means to me and what is it like for me to belong in the world and how I would like to portray it.”
Sensuality and its expression aren’t new to fashion. Tom Ford’s tenure at Gucci with provocative and sexually explicit advertisements and Calvin Klein’s famous fashion ads featuring a nearly naked Kate Moss (both during the late 90s) focused on the sexy appeal of sex and proved to be an absolute success. However, the fashion industry isn’t quite ready to go before it accepts the provocative homoerotic images.
More than simply creating new and striking imagery, Pushing for acceptance is a part of Saint Sernin’s mission and the foundation of his brand.
The designer stated, “I was influenced by Robert Mapplethorpe, Madonna, pop stars, and icons from the queer community throughout the years. The ones who impacted me the most were those who had a unique connection to sex and were not afraid of showing sex in a manner that was unique and original and their own interpretation of it. ….I had to bring this aspect to the brand and make it an experience that is more than goes beyond clothes. I believe that as a brand nowadays, you can’t just be creating clothes. You have to be able to convey a message to create something that is important to your audience as well as informs and provides visibility to what you believe in.”
As Quinlivan stated, “Luckily, right now we’re in a time where we’re in a position, particularly in our industry that is creative, where there’s an abundance of gender expression and the breaking of gender norms. the new frontier of creativity is the ability to rewrite these codes in a manner that is more radical than wearing a dress for or a skirt on a guy. There are many ways to challenge gender stereotypes and not be so evident. This is one reason I am incredibly enthused towards Ludovic because is a way to express gender but isn’t so evident, it’s gender-fluid but without turning it into the subject of a show.”
However, today the challenge to gender norms is now the norm. one of the ways fashion designers have taken to be more controversial is to use unconventional casting to get attention or make it viral.
“Fashion is art,” and designers should be free to choose who they wish. But, at some point, do we become aware that we’re exploitation of these people and putting them in a position to be an icon to make profits for corporations? This is evident with Pride as an example and how it’s become a corporatized phenomenon, but, in the fashion industry, it is beginning to follow the corporate model,” said Quinlivan, who is transgender herself and has made public statements about the issue of gender equality. “The fashion industry can have distinctive casting and messages without compromising the most radical aspects: the Internet or Twitter. We are trying to make some of the most radical aspects of culture within the sphere of fashion, however, in a manner that isn’t a good fit with the masses.”
More than ever before, the global movement to promote gender equality has made massive progress toward creating a society that allows members of the community can freely express and appreciate their sexuality with no anxiety. The fashion industry continues to promote beauty in all its ways, and it’s a source of the development of creativity and is slowly moving towards a future with greater equality. With it, the trend of sex-related appeal is beginning to transcend its primary nature of pure appeal and becoming a beacon to end shame and promote body positivity. Let people who are consuming the products accept the many ways they feel.
“What’s incredible about the changes happening right now is that there are so many voices that are being heard. We’re heading in a fantastic direction, and we’re opening doors too but thanks to the people who have had them open before us. There are things that have to be altered, but adding fresh voices, and showing that there’s something new to be done and new people who need to be heard, I believe is the most important thing,” de Saint Sernin declared.
