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Americans Near Paris: New Exhibition in France Highlights Isabel and Ruben Toledo’s Work.



The museum at SCAD will present the first posthumous exhibit of Isabel Toledo’s art as part of its 20th-anniversary celebrations. “Love Letter” focuses on the collaboration between the late designer, best known for creating Michelle Obama’s Inauguration outfit, and her husband, Ruben. Christina Frank, the curator, explained that Ruben was a black-and-white artist who encouraged Isabel to bring color into his work. The exhibition reflects both those spectra. The majority of the exhibits are from the 2000s. This era is still being explored. Ruben Toledo speaks to us about Isabel and his connection to France and the definition of American fashion.

Isabel Toledo, 2008. Photo: David Handschuh / NY Daily News Archive via Getty Images

The show’s title is quite poignant.

Although it’s still difficult for me to think about the future without Isabel, I want to honor her work, and SCAD is doing so. I value sharing her ideas and her philosophy. That’s my mission right now. Isabel is still my grief, and I am mourning her husband, the Toledos. They are gone, so I am their custodian. I help preserve their archive and ensure that their work is shared with the next generation.

Which aspects of the work are you most proud to show off?

I believe [the curators] chose pieces that showed how [Isabel] ‘s] engineering and smartness in construction are always super evident. They can be worn inside out, from front to back, and still, work.

Isabel has always stated that she dresses with emotion. Isabel expressed her feelings through cloth and how things were made. She loved to address everyone’s emotions, no matter how delicate or strong or aggressive or fragile. It allowed women to continue expressing their feelings and do the same for themselves. That is my favorite part. The idea of using Isabel’s quotations and some of my writings on Isabel. There are also personal notebooks, sketchbooks, and sketches. We wanted to discuss how fashion is at its peak, and good design is more than engineering. It’s also emotional and personal relationships. It feeds both the heart and the mind.

Fashion must live in the world and serve you. We distinguished between costumes and real clothes because we had the opportunity to work with outfits from a young age with our choreographers like Twyla Tharp and Bill T. Jones. Although costumes can sometimes be spectacular, they are merely costumes. Fashion must be functional; Isabel was acutely aware of this. You can’t keep it in your closet, and you should wear it often. Isabel also knew how to make those special occasions moments shine.


Ruben and Isabel Toledo with Karl Lagerfeld, 2005. Photo: Stephen Lovekin / WireImage

One thing that has been on my mind lately is the dressmaking traditions in Latin America and Spain. It seems more collaborative than couture.

Isabel was a seamstress and then a designer. She said that she was a seamstress first, then a designer. But, her idea was that she was a service, both to herself and to clients and women. It is possible to collaborate with the person wearing it and the courier. Because we are artists, we take it for granted that our vision is a reality. Even if the client states that she wants something simple so she can relax, you will still give her what she wants. Poetry is where it all begins.

Isabel’s patterns are full of poetry, which I find very inspiring.

Because Isabel’s patterns are still amazing, I decided to do ink work. I see these graphic symbols when I look at the patterns pieces. They can look like bugs or personages. Isabel was a genius. She thought of her clothes as fluid, fluid, elegant, and flowing things that follow your body. I honor her skill in pattern-making and shaping. Karl called her a Couturiere because she could make the pattern and cut the dress. Then she learned how to sew the entire cycle. Isabel believed clothes would last forever when she was making them. Isabel offered her service by allowing clients to send their clothes back to us if they needed repairs or rework. Isabel believes that whatever we make in our studio is meant to last forever and will outlive us. It’s a lovely way to look at what you create.

How does Isabel relate to couture?

We were fortunate to have amazing friends such as Bill [Cunningham], Juan Ramos, and Antonio Lopez [creative Director and illustrator], who helped us learn about fashion and couture. Juan commented on Isabel’s clothes that they were like …. old-fashioned couture. You see today in couture what wasn’t there when we first visited Paris. There were no couture shows, and you saw beautiful couture clothes, but you didn’t see the same. It was just Isabel in a beautiful gown, and you couldn’t understand why. It was not about proclaiming to the world that this brand is such-and-such. It wasn’t about branding. The dress made the woman feel beautiful, and it moved beautifully. She looked amazing. There were many secrets to the dress. The pocket was hidden in the seam. She slumped in it because of its construction. Or the way it moved. Isabel fell for these magic tricks because that was what she was already doing. Juan also saw the simplicity of her previous work. This [helped us stay focused] because our friends, up until that point, we’re like, “You have to wear snappier clothes. You have to make things stand out more.” But Isabel was such quiet talent. She was naturally inclined to create something mysteriously and secretly brilliant. It’s almost like she doesn’t know why but it just captures. She was that kind of person.

Isabel and Ruben Toledo, with fans he painted, 2006. Photo: Joe Schildhorn / Patrick McMullan via Getty Images

How do you relate to France?

In the late 1980s, we started to exhibit in Paris to make some money. New York’s business was really bad in 1987 and 1988. The budget was cut first when New York business became difficult. It was like Little Rascals, as we worked in a tiny hotel room until the morning before. Bill Cunningham was the one who showed us where to stay at a reasonable price. Suzanne Bartsch lived next to us because she was there for Love Ball and the whole crew. It was, as you can see, a hotel full of misfits.

It was a wild, beautiful, almost dorm-like fashion show in its first years. Before RuPaul had his TV show, I recall that RuPaul was part of the crew. We were shown in tiny cafes or little dungeons under restaurants and wine cellars. Although our shows were tiny and the audience was small, they were amazing people, like Bettina Graziani, who was Givenchy’s muse. We then started selling to Galeries Lafayette and Colette.

Before we did this, we had never been to Europe. This opened up a new perspective on fashion and how they view it as a culture. It was an amazing fusion, and it opened up intellectually for us to see how other people perceive fashion. Then we could leap by presenting fashion as pure art.

What was your experience in Paris?

Many French would respond, “You’re not an American designer. You’re a Spanish one.” But Isabel was so fond of industry. She loved sewing machines and mass production. And she loved patterns that were so clever, like puzzle pieces.


Isabel’s work is American.

The word serviceability is what I always refer to. Isabel and I greatly appreciated the army surplus, work clothes, and their utility. Add poetic fantasy to it, and you have a whole new territory. The American casualness, sloppiness, and acceptance of mistakes are refreshing. We get everything wrong, so we invent the wrong. We’re open to it, and that creates new friction. The American way of living life is inspiring. Even when you feel down, there is the idea that you can tap dance your way into the future. Everybody puts on a brighter, better face. We don’t have much historical background because we are busy inventing it. That’s a beautiful view of life. You don’t allow the past to drag you down. Instead, it would help if you made the next chapter. I believe that American fashion and design have this optimism that anything is possible.

Barak Obama and Michelle Obama, in Isabel Toledo, at the Inauguration, 2009. Photo: Justin Sullivan / Getty Images

Isabel’s clothes are both timeless and current. How do the show’s pieces reflect the 2000s?

This is why this period is so interesting. We were finally reaching financial stability. It took us a long time to be able to work with exquisite textiles at a higher price than we were able to afford. I believe that American society was spending more on clothing during this time. It was like an uphill climb. The lushness of things increased every season, and clients were expecting more exquisite treatments. It was an opportunity to spend more time creating truly wonderful stuff than ever before. Isabel was always interested in this kind of thing, even though it was a T-shirt dress ….. The idea was that we would now be using luxurious textiles and layering lace. Isabel would make the corsetry for the inside of a dress just as beautifully as the dress it would be fitted onto. Because there was a client who wanted it, she was able to put in that same amount of effort and energy.

What other information do you want visitors to take away from the “Love Letter”?

It is important to share that Isabel was a fearless creator who was conscious of her ability to be of service. She was a courageous woman in all aspects. She was brave about her talents and how she approached the world, and, for that reason, she gave women empowerment. That is what I love about her. This allowed me to witness her grow in fashion and general. It was amazing. I wish that all visitors to SCAD feel the same, that there is empowerment and nurturing when things are done in love. It is a ripple effect that reaches out to the audience. Your audience feels a ripple effect, and she was aware of this. She was.

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Apple Plans To Double Its Digital Advertising Business Workforce.



The move raises industry concerns following the launch of privacy guidelines which make it impossible to create ads that are tailored to iPhone users

Apple plans to more than double its workforce within its rapidly growing digital advertising business in less than 18 months after it enacted radical privacy rules that crippled its larger competitors in the lucrative business.

The iPhone maker has about 250 employees per LinkedIn advertising platforms team. On the Apple careers website, it’s looking to fill additional 216 positions, which is quadruple the 56 positions that it had hired in the latter half of 2020. Apple denied the claims. However, it declined to provide any further details.

The digital advertising industry has been apprehensive over Apple’s plans for advertising since the company introduced privacy regulations this year, which have shaken up the market for digital ads worth $400 billion and made it more challenging to customize ads for Apple’s one billion+ iusers Phone .


Since the new policy was implemented, Facebook parent Meta, Snap and Twitter have lost billions of dollars in revenue and a significant amount in market valuations, even though other contributory factors exist.

“It was almost like a global panic,” Jade Arenstein, global service director at Incubate, a South African-based marketing performance firm, was quoted as saying about the impact of Apple’s recent changes.

The once-flourishing advertising business is “incredibly fast-growing”, according to an ad for jobs. The business has grown from a mere few hundred million dollars in revenue in the last quarter of 2010 to an estimated $5bn in the current year, according to research firm Evercore ISI, which expects Apple to be able to grow its $30 billion advertising revenue within four years.

Compared with Google and Facebook and their 2021 revenue from advertising was $115bn and $209bn. For instance, Apple’s business in advertising is small. The digital advertising industry is worried that it will increase due to establishing rules that critics and rivals believe provide it with an advantage.

“Building new ad systems to effectively compete with incumbents with tens of thousands of employees and 10 to 20 years of maturity would normally be an impossible task,” said Alex Austin, chief executive of the ad tech group Branch. “Unless,” he added, “you were somehow able to disadvantage those competitors on your platform.”


Apple has been for a long time the most prominent Big Tech outlier for not taking part in “surveillance capitalism” — the practice of offering customers free services but making money on their data through targeting ads on them.

“We could make a tonne of money if we monetized our customers — if our customers were our product,” chief executive Tim Cook said in 2018. “We’ve elected not to do that.”

However, with Apple having twice the number of developers who can purchase ads on the App Store over the last two years and preparing plans to expand, the critics are seeing Cook taking a significant turn.

David Steinberg, chief executive of Zeta Global, a marketing technology firm, said Apple had been “Machiavellian” and “brilliant” in implementing privacy regulations that required rivals to revamp their advertising infrastructure while creating an opening to fill the gap.

“They could build out (their advertising business) dramatically (and) the ‘air cover’ is they are protecting the consumer’s privacy,” said the researcher. Added.


Apple did not comment on its long-term plans. The job advertisements tell prospective employees that the company’s goals are nothing more than “redefining advertising” for a “privacy-centric” world.

The 216 positions Apple wants to fill are managers and designers of products, in addition to data engineers and sales experts.

An advertisement for an engineer, released on August 24, is a reference to “Apple’s most confidential and strategic plans” and explains how the company plans to “build the most secure technology-driven, technologically sophisticated . . . Supply (Marketplace) Platform and Demand Side Platform”.

These are the core aspects of an ad tech company that allows advertisers to purchase and sell ads across multiple exchanges, possibly advertising in mobile applications downloaded through the App Store. Apple may be able to consider apps for mobile “first-party” data because all activities take place on the iPhone, which is in line with its privacy regulations which ban third-party apps’ contentful monitoring of users.

The positions are predominantly located in the US. However, there are at least 27 roles in Europe and 12 in China and 12 in India and four located in Japan, as well as two positions in Singapore.


“That’s a giant team — that’s bigger than most small companies,” Arenstein said. Arenstein. “Wherever there is smoke, there is fire, and that’s some smoke.”

Apple has never been averse to advertising by itself. Its CEO Steve Jobs even tried to create an in-app advertising business in 2010, so that iPhone apps would remain completely free. Cook is against how personal information is purchased and traded by opaque third parties without iPhone users’ consent.

Yet, Apple set the rules regarding how advertisements should function and later expanding into this very subject is seen by many as unsatisfactory.

At the moment, it’s more secure — in terms of the economy of surveillance using an Apple phone over one that is a Google phone, as Google has designed its products to support surveillance, while Apple isn’t, in its essence, an advertising firm,” said Claire Atkin co-founder at Check My Ads, a surveillance agency. “But if Apple suddenly delves into that realm, they won’t have a that competitive advantage.”

Apple might be putting its image at risk if regulators and consumers oppose its privacy claims which have been a significant part of the recent iPhone campaigns. If the argument prevails, Apple would have an unobstructed runway.


Margo Kahnrose, Chief Marketing Officer at Skai, an omnichannel advertising platform, has said that she believes it “makes absolute logical sense” for Apple to develop its advertising network, following the lead of Google, Facebook and Amazon.

Adtech’s power has, she explained, for a long time been flowing from the decentralized “open web” to “walled gardens” run by one company that can control how ads are purchased and served, as well as how they are measured and tracked.

“The world has been unnerved by Apple’s ambitions for a long time,” she said. “There are a few companies that have vast quantities of power, and Apple is the one that is sleeping.

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Six Ways To Maintain A Growth Mindset While Running A Business.



To be successful as an entrepreneur, starting your business with the appropriate mentality is essential. A growth-oriented mindset implies always striving to improve the product or service you offer or the ability to communicate with people in your industry. Many companies start as small, but they expand in time to become massive businesses that impact people’s lives in the millions. However, this kind of growth isn’t a quick process – it requires a lot of time and effort, and it’s all with constant improvement.

Six Ways to Maintain a Growth Mindset While Running a Business.

1.) Change your outlook

If you’re in the business of managing, it’s easy to become caught up in the day-to-day and forget about the bigger perspective. However, if you’d like your business to flourish, keeping an attitude of growth is essential. Being able to open your mind to be fully engaged in the things you believe are the best for you is crucial.

2) Are you in your comfort zone?

One of the difficulties of managing a business is it’s easy to get into a routine. Once you’ve discovered a method that works, it might be tempting to stick to it. However, staying with the same formula with different outcomes isn’t intelligent. If you’re looking for your business to expand, make sure you alter things with slight adjustments to ensure that your business feels fresh and exciting.

3.) Be prepared to take the risk

Nobody said creating and running a company was easy, regardless of whether you’re putting together an exercise calendar or an entirely new line of clothing. It’s one of the most challenging tasks you’ll ever have to do. If you want to succeed, you must have a mindset of improvement. Create a staff around you. Find people who can assist your company in its growth. It’s not necessary to shoulder all the responsibility for your company. After all. Make sure you take sensible risks. There is undoubtedly a danger involved in taking risks, but when you take calculated risks, you reap a calculated reward. The most successful entrepreneurs realize that sometimes it takes a long time to bring an idea to fruition. Therefore, they remain in the game and push forward.


4.) Connect with others who are adamant about your abilities

One of the most effective methods to keep a positive mental attitude is to surround yourself with people who are confident in your abilities. If you’re always around optimistic people who believe in your ambitions, It’s easier to stay inspired and push ahead.

5) Discuss your concerns

If you’re in charge of an enterprise, it’s simple to become distracted by the day-to-day and forget about the bigger overall picture. It’s possible to worry about how to make ends meet and meet deadlines or having to deal with demanding customers. Discussing these concerns with the rest of your entrepreneurial friends and colleagues is essential to ensure that things stay on the right track.

6) Be focused on progress, not perfect

When you’re an entrepreneur is effortless to be caught in the pursuit of perfection. You’d like your service or product to look flawless before launching it, but the reality is that it’s impossible to be perfect. It is essential to keep in mind that the pace of progress will always be better than perfect. Start by taking it one day at a. The advantage of keeping a single day in mind at a time is that even should things not go as scheduled. It doesn’t matter since tomorrow is another day to start from scratch. Create workable goals. After creating some feasible goals, please keep track of them and assess how they performed based on outcomes rather than the amount of time and effort poured into them.

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What Is Good Debt and Bad Debt for a Small Business?



There are two kinds of loans for small companies. Find out which one is best and which one is not.

For many people, the term “debt” has negative connotations. However, when setting up a small-sized company, it is not necessary to stay clear of debt completely. There’s “good debt” that is essential for growth when you start an enterprise, but there’s “bad” debt that could cause long-term harm to your financial situation.

The difference between good and bad debt and how to manage your company’s finances to keep them in check.

Good debt in contrast to. Credit card debt What’s the distinction?

Lyle Solomon, principal attorney for Oak View Law Group, states, “good debt returns money to your pocket, but bad debt takes money from your pocket.”


“Debt that increases your future net worth is considered good debt, and debt that reduces your future net value is referred to as bad debt,” Solomon added.

Good debt

Kenneth Hearn, fund manager and director of research for Swiss One Capital AG, describes good small-sized business loans as the money borrowed to finance things that contribute to the development and growth of their company.

“This could be for anything from paying for improvements to meet new safety regulations or expanding your human resources team,” the man explained. “A general rule of ‘good debt’ is debt that is low-interest, or will increase the overall net worth of your business.”

Paying off your debts shows you have a good payment history, which your credit rating can show. The more debt types you can manage responsibly and pay off, the more favourable. This means that more lenders will permit you to get in the future.

Bad debt

When a lender takes out money to purchase an item that doesn’t increase in value or produce revenue, it is often regarded as bad credit. Any loan or borrowed funds that could lower the value of your company’s net future must be avoided. The signs of bad debt are the high-interest cost, fees, and strict loan repayment conditions.


Examples of lousy credit include cash advances and payday loans, usually called “predatory loans.”

“These loans . Target people with bad credit or low income with few options to consider,” Solomon added. Solomon. “[They often] come with exorbitant interest rates and unethical terms.”

Things to think about when making a “good debt an investment

If you are considering getting a loan, entrepreneurs in small businesses should consider the type of debt they’ll be taking on. If the lender takes out a loan for an asset that isn’t going to depreciate, for example, real estate, education, or their own company, on favourable terms, it’s considered to be a good debt.

“Healthy debt entails borrowing money for investing in items that do not depreciate over time,” Solomon explained. Solomon. “Keep the above in mind when you borrow money to run your business. Use the funds to minimize the chance of a catastrophe or loss.”

One approach small business owners may employ when borrowing money is to commit to the lowest rate of interest possible.


“Your interest payments are tax-deductible,” Hearn said. Hearn. “These tax deductions could help you get over the red line and into the realm of profitability. If you manage your cards correctly, interest rates can benefit you rather than against you.”

Strategies to get out of credit

If a small-sized business owner is trying to escape the burden of bad debt, There are options to overcome the situation. First, examine the company’s budget and financial statements.

“Financial management software has come a long way over the past couple of decades, and having proper procedures for data entry and its use from the start of your business is crucial to managing good or bad debt,” Hearn said. Hearn.

For business owners who are in “bad debt,” Solomon advised consolidating debts to one loan.

“Debt consolidation is an intelligent debt management approach to ensure you’re paying the lowest rates and on the most optimal or flexible terms available,” said the expert to CO–. “Such a move would benefit your business, as you can avoid worries regarding payments.”


Companies must ensure they have the funds to repay this consolidating loan, or it could negatively affect their business credit and financial situation. However, if used properly in the right way, consolidating or restructuring multiple debts is an innovative method of managing the finances of small businesses.

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